At this year's Watches and Wonders trade show, Rolex launched some cracking new pieces. Among them was a new dress watch line called Perpetual 1908; an Oyster Perpetual model with fun, multi-colored bubbles on the dial; and a 40mm Explorer I. The brand also made substantial upgrades to the much-hyped Daytona range including a see-through caseback on its Platinum model. But for our money, the standout piece from the iconic Swiss maker is the Rolex Yacht-Master 42mm in full titanium.
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A Watch With a Job
A question enthusiasts love to debate: Are professional Rolex models really tool watches anymore or just luxury sport pieces? We will cede that debate to the comment section over at Hodinkee, but inarguable is the fact Rolex designs and builds watches to serve a purpose beyond a mere status flex. It’s inextricable from the brand’s DNA.
The Yacht-Master has been part of that tradition and, as its name implies, it’s a piece created specifically for navigators and sailors with a bi-directional bezel to make it easier to track elapsed time while on the water.
Previously, Rolex Yacht-Master 42mm was only available in gold, white, or yellow, which was perhaps a bit too precious for its intended vocation and certainly too opulent to be considered a “tool watch.” The new version subtracts some luxury and adds a bit of rugged gravitas better suited for a life at sea, representing a slight return to the brand’s utilitarian roots.
A Metal With Mettle
Titanium is, of course, mechanically strong, corrosion-resistant, and incredibly light. Constructing a watch in titanium, rather than precious metal or steel, reduces weight without sacrificing integrity. The brand says the new Yacht-Master weighs in at around 100 grams. For comparison, the steel Submariner clocks in at 155 grams and the gold variant of Yacht-Master tips the scales at over 170 grams on a rubber strap, known as Oyster-flex (it was never available on a bracelet). That’s one helluva drop.
Rolex calls the grade 5 alloy it's chosen for Yacht "RLX Titanium.” Not only does it feature traditional titanium characteristics but, unlike other variants, it can be both brushed and polished for Rolex-level finishing. In this case, the brand chose a satin finish with a visible grain across most of the piece, while chamfered top edges of the middle case lugs have a high-sheen finish and a fully polished crown guard.
It probably goes without saying, but titanium isn’t new in the world of watches. Makers from across the spectrum have been producing timepieces out of the material for decades. It is, however, new to Rolex and after last year’s release of the DeepSea Challenge, Yacht-Master is now only the second titanium piece made available for sale at boutiques.
There Was a Hint
The watch community has been quasi-expecting this for a while. Champion sailor Sir Ben Ainslie has been wearing a prototype, no-date version of the Yacht-Master in titanium on a cordura velcro strap since 2020. It was spotted on his wrist at a number of events around the world and caught on camera during a practice session during the Bermuda SailGP in 2021.
“The team at Rolex has been incredibly thoughtful by giving me a titanium Yacht-Master 42,” he told The Week in a 2020 interview. “I’m extremely honored to have it, plus, from a performance perspective, every little bit of weight that we can save, helps us to go faster with the boat.” But, after a three-year wait, Ainslie is no longer the only one who gets to wear one in titanium.
Keeps on Tickin’
The new Yacht-Master, reference number 226627, is loaded with the same calibre 3235 movement as before, which counts the hours, minutes, and seconds as well as the date. As it’s a professional Rolex, Yacht-Master gets a Superlative Chronometer certification and is accurate to −2 /+2 seconds per day.
In case a sailor falls overboard, the Oyster case is waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 ft), thanks to a hermetically screwed down case back and screw down crown. The virtually scratch-proof sapphire crystal is glazed with an anti-reflective coating and spotlights the date function with a cyclops lens at 3 o’clock. On the face, Yacht-Master features matte-black dial and traditional Rolex hallmarks, including round indices bordered in white gold and Mercedes hands.
For tracking race times, Yacht-Master is fitted with a 60-minute graduated matte-black Cerachrom insert in the bezel that turns in both directions, so a sailor can easily make adjustments while at the helm.
The Sticky Wicket
The new Rolex Yacht-Master is going to be hard to come by. It’s a Rolex sports watch, so there’s already a wait. After a quick reality check with an authorized dealer, customers are already putting down their names in droves for a piece they've yet to see in titanium. The brand hasn’t announced production volume, and won’t, but know it’s going to be well-outpaced by demand.
So, if a titanium Rolex tool watch speaks to you like it does to us, register your interest ASAP and cool your heels. Hopefully you’ll get a call before next year’s Rolex drops…
[$14,050; rolex.com]
from Men's Journal https://ift.tt/MOoHCnL
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